A few years back, I was working by day as a food editor and by night a chef (of the lowest order). Removing any trace of corporate dress; I would throw on unisex chef whites and arrive at the Anchor & Hope for a night of being bossed. The premise was I'd work for free, doing anything they needed (ranged from peeling broad beans to on my the most momentous of evenings, plating desserts)and the chefs would teach me how it's done.
Today I arrived back into the familiar bugundy dining room with some familiar faces behind the bar. Sunday lunch here must still be the best in London; it's no nonense, nothing compromised, just socking great flavours cooked beautifully.
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